Wood Working

Under table storage cabinet with drawers – How to

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measurement of the cabinet

The storage cabinet is 16inches deep and 2 feet tall. It will have four drawers. At the bottom I would raise it about 2.5inches with a toe kicker.

cutting strips for the drawers

The edges are sanded to clean tear outs.

First I start making the drawers from this long sheet of 12mm plywood. I measure and begin cutting with the circular saw. The cut pieces have rough edges so I sand it with a sanding block.

Using a stop block helps repeated cuts.

Using a stop block helps repeated cuts.

To cut the pieces to length I used my cross cut sled. I set a stop block on one side then push each piece upto it and began cutting them. For the shorter pieces I measure and change the stop block’s distance. Then cut the rest.

I set the depth of the router with a scrap piece of 12mm plywood.

I set the depth of the router with a scrap piece of 12mm plywood.

To make the drawers I have to dado the edges on the front and back pieces. So I set the depth to half of 12mm. Then by setting up the fence I set the width of the cut to 12mm.

Be careful with the hand.

Be careful with the hand.

I run the front and back pieces through the router and check each piece with a scrap 12mm plywood.

Create slot with 6mm bit on the router.

Create slot with 6mm bit on the router.

Then to create a slot at the bottom end of all the sides I change the router bit to 6mm. I’ll show you the use of this slot later.

I trim the back sides alone near the slot.

I trim the back sides alone near the slot.

By setting the table saw fence I raise the blade exactly to the end of the slot. Then I trim only backside pieces of the drawer. When I put the drawers together you will understand this. I do this for all four of them.

The brad nails are used to hold till the glue dries

The brad nails are used to hold till the glue dries

Now making the drawers will be easy because of all the dado and the slots cut in already. I apply fevicol glue on the dado and stick the side pieces. Then hold it with brad nails while the glue dries. You can see the backside being shorter because I trimmed the slot.

Both the diagonal values should be the same.

Both the diagonal values should be the same.

I check for square-ness of the box being moving to assemble the next drawer.

The screws add strength to the pull and push the drawers.

The screws add strength to the pull and push the drawers.

The drawers will be subjected to pull and push. So to make the joints more secure I drill some pilot holes, counter sink them and drive in half inch screws.

Probably a hard board was enough. But I used 6mm plywood.

Probably a hard board was enough. But I used 6mm plywood.

The create the bottom of these drawers I cut some 6mm plywood to size. These plywoods will go into the slots that I cut earlier with the router. And the backside being shorter will allow easy access to insert these bottom plywoods. To secure the bottom I apply some glue before inserting the sheets. The side plywoods are little bent so I use some clamps to hold until the glue dries. To attach the bottom I pre-drill holes, counter sink them and then secure it with screws to the backside alone.

add drawer sliders

I added some 6mm plywood to give a raise platform to attach the sliders. I first secure one end of the slider to the side and then use a level before I can secure it with the second screw. I measure the height of the slider and mark the other side and the repeat the same steps. To attach the rest I repeated the same steps and secure the sliders to each of the raise boards.

Now I can attach the drawers to these sliders. I pull out the extendable part of the drawer. Mark where I have to pre-drill holes and then secure it with screws. The sliders need to be parallel to the drawers. I check this using a level. There could be better ways to do this but I just followed this way.

The veneer is being trimmed.

The veneer is being trimmed.

To create the front faces of the drawers I used 18mm plywood. Then by setting the fence I cut four front faces. During the night I stuck some veneer to these front faces and then trimmed out the edges with a flush trim bit.

hide the end cuts

To hide the end cuts I used some 6mm strips of hard wood. I took measurement and cut 45degree at the ends. Then glued them and secured it with brad nails. I repeated the same steps for all the four face plates.

trim hardwood strips

The hard wood strips were a bit oversized. I trimmed them down with flush trim bit on the router before attaching them to the drawers.

Secured with just glue and brad nails

Secured with just glue and brad nails

I cover the end cuts of the cabinet using some curved hardwood strips. I measure the length, cut the 45degrees using the sled and secure it with brad nails.

The face plates are screwed in from the inside.

The face plates are screwed in from the inside.

Attaching the face plates are next. I eye ball the distance from the bottom and then pre-drill some pilot holes. I screw on only one end and then set the face plate straight before driving in the second screw. Then followed these steps from top to bottom to create equal gaps between each drawers.

A good 3hrs drying time is required.

A good 3hrs drying time is required.

Before attaching the veneer to the cabinet I check if the cut size is correct. Then I pour some fevicol hyper glue to stick the veneer to the sides. I clamp the veneer with some hardwood so the pressure from the clamp is evened out. Also having these wood will stop clamp from leaving marks on the veneer.

Two coats of varnish with in between sanding.

Two coats of varnish with in between sanding.

I sand the sides to remove dirt and oil with 220 grit sandpaper. I also sand the face frames with a sanding block. I used Nerolac varnish to cover up the veneer. It is almost colourless and puts on a thick coat each time. The next morning I give the sides a light sanding with 320 grit before applying the second coat. I love how the finish raises up the contrast in the veneer.

add handles to face plate

To add handles to the face plates I mark the points to drill. Then pre-drill and counter sink with forcener bit.After applying some finish to face plates I put some screws through the pre-drilled holes. Then tighten the handles using a screw driver.

secure face plates to drawer

I know it’s a mess on the front-side but that will be covered with these beautiful face plates. I just drive screws again through the same holes to attach the face plates.

add toe kicker

The last step is to add these toe kicker. I made these by gluing together two strips of pine with a red wood in between. I love how these came out. I will sure try more such combinations in future projects. To secure these to the base I first counter sink with a forsner bit. Then drill some pilot holes to avoid splitting. I run a bead of fevicol hyper glue on the end before driving in some 2inch screws.

With that the storage cabinet with drawers is ready.

Storage cabinet with drawers: Watch Part 1

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Storage cabinet with drawers: Watch Part 2

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